Our last leg

We get away from Frikes a little behind schedule buy hey that's OK.  It's another beautiful morning and the weather couldn't be better for us. It's smooth sailing all the way to Messalonghi approximately six hours.  The airforce F18's give us a final show over head and we don't see any wild life on our last leg.  The calm waters mean we can get some more work done to get the yacht ready for wintering.

We keep busy for most of the trip in between our last sun baking sessions.

Once we tie off in Messalonghi we head to the office and handle all the paperwork and contact for our twelve months stay on dry dock.  The girl is very helpful and arranges many things for us.  It's a pretty cruisy  afternoon as we wait for the fuel guy to arrive so we can fill up and I'm heading into town to the laundromat.  It's really all boring now with domestic stuff so that's all folks.

Our voyage - video

Is now over; and after three months of well just about anything and everything we are heading home to family and friends.  And can't wait!

We've spent three months away and here is three minutes summing it up.  Enjoy the video and farewell till next time.

Frikes and the SOO

After we finish our provisioning in Nidri we decide to head straight over to Frikes.  Best case scenario the Aussie Bar is there for tomorrow's SOO and worst case it is closed down and we move on.

It's a four hour motor sail down south to Frikes and we have a beam reach for the last two hours with Beauforts  4s and 5s. We see our last pod of baby dolphins for the trip and loads of small schools of fish in the area. Today seems like the busiest on the Ionian Sea for yachts, they are everywhere and really enjoying the winds, a lovely spectacle to see.

Frikes is a very small village with even a smaller harbour with not much space available for yachts.  The floating pontoon is broken so it can't be used and one of the tourist cruises from Nidri needs the use of the wharf at a certain time every afternoon.

Some inconsiderate  sailers as side onto the wharf which means there is even less room, which is a shame during the busy summer months.

We manage to find the last space stern to next to another yacht that has just arrived right at the end of the western wharf, we just squeeze in.  Our new neighbours are very friendly and we get to know them pretty well over the next 24 hrs.

We have some lunch then head into the village in search of the Aussie Bar and bingo! Yes it's here,  Dennis and Petre, from Sans Souci, their cousins own Endeavour Seafoods in Ramsgate and have a Charcoal Chicken business in Caringbah, what a small world it is.  They are really funny guys and Blues  supporters of course.  We are sooo happy we can watch the game tomorrow.

I find a place that does the washing so give them two loads to do, they wash only so in the afternoon the yacht looks like a Chinese laundry, but hey at least that's two less loads to do on Friday.

I'm cooking up a storm tonight, basically a play on paella  without the seafood.  I've got some spicy sausages, salami, and hot green chillies to give it some extra zing and it's pretty tasty and will last us for two dinners.  We head out for pre dinner drinks at the  Aussie Bar and enjoy a relaxing evening, eating dinner later on.

The fast ferry from Italy apparently flys by and causes some havoc on the wharf with the yachts really rocking and rolling, those side on have the worst experience, lucky for us we are in a pretty  good location up the end.  Everyone is off their yachts running around as some masts are clashing.

It's a pretty disturbed sleep with the wash from the ferry and swell rolling in.  We have some breakfast ashore and catch up on the internet using Free Wi-Fi.  We now call it Wi-Li as most places advertise they have Wi- Fi but once you order your drinks and get what looks like you are connected you find out in fact you are not.  Either their monthly allocation has run out or it just doesn't work.

We get ready for the match as its showing at 1pm live on the Fox Soccer channel.  I can't believe how many cane toad supporters are here.  A few of the Aussies from to charter companies are here and we have a fab afternoon with them.  Unfortunately the Blues loose and rightly so they made too many mistakes.  However I think the streaker was a Queensland plant by the coach Mal.  It's certainly changed the focus of the  game.

I must mention just how clean and clear the water is here.  We are all just swimming off the yachts the temperature is perfect and so refreshing.

It's a pretty big afternoon and we are kind of the glad that the  football match was playing early as we have a 6am start tomorrow.  We will now be a day late arriving at Messolonghi our wintering location due to the SOO but definitely worth it.  Before we leave I do manage to catch up with my fishing buddies.

Stage Three: Rhodes to Mesolongion

Here is a look at the final stage of our trip heading back from Turkey to Greece.

In total we have sailed approximately 1737 nautical miles over three months and we initially estimated 1800 miles when we did our original sail plan back in January. And the plan changed considerably.

Some of the distances are too small to show up on the map but this gives you a visual.

A never ending adventure.

Although we think we know where we are going the plan always changes.

In the morning we do one last large shop for the rest of the trip.  Then after coffee and Face Time  with mum and dad, thanks to Kym and Ivan we depart Fiscardo this time definitely  for the last time.

We were planning on heading up to Meganisi but as there is a uncomfortable cross swell so we decide to take it easy and just do a short hop over to Sivota on the south end of the Island of Levkas.

We have a very relaxing day / night there with a few swims and we were able to catch a Waratah's game at the Yacht Bar.  It's pretty quite for a Saturday night but think most flotillas are over for the week and the new crews arriving tomorrow.

The weather on Sunday is looking much better for Meganisi so we head for a new anchorage called Port Atheni, we have not been here before and it's only next door to Abelikie. 

Greg finds a great spot to anchor with the winds at our stern.  It's pretty busy in the bay and looks like there are lots of live aboards here long term as they even have their satellite dishes connected on shore.

It's a really beautiful area and the waters a turquoise.

In the afternoon we walk around to the actual Port as there are a few bars and a market.  We enjoy a refreshing cold drink with the local sleepy cat.

I made a big pot of Spag Bol yesterday so we are finishing that off tonight for dinner.

I'm awake early and get to see the sun rising over the bay.

And I take the opportunity to spend the morning preparing one of the cabins for wintering.  I complete most of the repackaging of items we will be leaving on board; most items need to go into vacuum sealed bags to keep the moisture out.   We air out the mattress in the morning sun and one cabin is now  done.

We have changed our final schedule as we want to make the most of our last few days.  The more work we can do on the yacht before we get to Mesolongion the better and less time we need to spend there.

We have also heard of an Aussie Bar on Ithaca Island at Frikes, and rumour has it they may be watching the final SOO, so we are heading over on Wednesday morning.  We send a second night at Port Atheni and in the afternoon paddle over to the beach directly opposite us.   There is a cafe and banana chairs on the beach and the water is just wonderful, about 29 degrees.

First thing Tuesday morning we are heading back to Nidri for a few supplies then looking for another anchorage on Meganisi for the night.

Poros

We wake to another beautiful day and first up its a swim out from the Rock Bar.  They own a cafe as well so we head there for breakfast and dry off in the sun.

 We watch a small van load up the sewer pipes as the EU has given the Greek govt. €5 million to upgrade the pipes.  There are signs everywhere stating how much money the EU has given the Govt for project work, but never looks like anything has been done.  I wonder where all the money has gone???.

We then pack our bag and head for the beach.  It's costs £5 euros to hire our sun beds for the day and the water is sensational, the best we have had for swimming so far.  It's a perfect relaxing day.  

We have lunch at  Panetelis Taverna just on the water front and then head back to the yacht for a snooze.  The wharf is pretty full already and our neighbours are from Fremantle John and Heather.  We also bump into British / Irish another couple from yesterday who went out sailing for the day and came back to Poros for the evening.

We enjoy our Ouzo up on a Taverna balcony and relax as  the winds cool us down while watching the yachts and people go by.  We take a stroll around the harbour and visit one of the local bars before heading home for bed. 

It's a rocky night with a swell and winds so not much sleep has been had.  I'm up at 6am for a walk around the harbour and up heartbreak hill into the village.  Once back on then yacht we get ready to depart of Ay Eufimia.  It's only two hours north up the coast of Cefalonica and we are heading into 4s, 5s and 6s just for something new.

It's a pretty village as we arrive to find there is a festival on tonight.  It's Ay Eufimia's name day so tonight there will be a procession through the streets, local dancing, music and fireworks till 3am.  We are really looking forward to seeing this.

We also want to visit the inland Lake  Melissani near Sami so Greg does a deal with the taxi driver to take us there and wait.  It was naturally formed during the 1953 earthquake.  

Ay Eufimia is a windy place as we soon find out not unlike Kalamos.  The harbour master is busy placing charter yachts into position and finally the last yacht arrives right beside us.  Unfortunately they were told where to drop their anchor and I'm pretty sure it's over ours.  Oh well something to worry about tomorrow morning.

One of the lead charter yachts was arriving bow to way too fast with the girl hanging her legs off the bow.  The helmsman gear box goes and he looses  reverse altogether and crunches the wharf and looses the anchor and the girl nearly looses her legs, luckily she was fast moving.  She is putting on a brave face but I'm sure she is in shock.

We have dinner at one of the grill houses right near where the festivities will be happening.  The brass band marches on by with the children all dressed in traditional clothes.  Some of them are really not interested at all which you can imagine, especially the boys.  The children are followed by the orthodox priests  and practitioners. The music goes on all night and the fireworks go off around 11am.  We are so tired we head off to bed quite early and miss some of the festivities.

Five sleeps to go!

After a disturbed sleep we wake and it takes us a while to get in the groove.  Our neighbours are keen for us to leave before they head to the airport in case they have to re lay their anchor.  As expected they have  fouled our anchor and its a tricky one.  We need the assistance of the harbour master in his dinghy to release our neighbours anchor from our chain. It takes about 20 minutes and I'm sure it's a spectacle for those on shore.

Again we are heading into the winds another two hours north to Fiscardo.  We get the last good space on the main wharf and right beside our friends from Poros who were also at Ay Eufimia last night.  A lovely couple.

We have lunch and then I crash out as feeling really knackered.  After a lie down we decide to have a swim not so far away.  The water is fab and really cools us down.  Looks like a special dinner tonight and we enjoy our pre dinner Ouzo as I write this blog.

Yes I'm in luck tonight we are heading over to one of a favourite places for spaghetti lobster Yeah! They have the fresh lobster , it's delicious.

We are having a fab  time with our meal in our favourite spot Fiscardo,  tomorrow heading north, winds permitting.  We have only five nights left before we have to be at our wintering location, then three nights there getting the yacht ready for  12 months of bye byes. 

Farewell Fiscardo

The morning sun on Fiscardo.

After a quick coffee and Orange Pie we bid farewell to one of our favouite places in the Ionians and really this whole trip.  I wonder if we will be back before we depart?

We are heading south down the west coast of Cephalonia to Argostoli a village we have not visited before and curious to see what it's like.  Apparently it can blow pretty hard down the channel but seems like we are in luck today as the winds are pretty mild.  It's a slow and uneventful seven hours really.  The coast line is interesting, some cliff faces are lime green and there are quite a few quarries.  Houses are erected in the most unusual places; you wonder how on earth they actually get the materials there.

There is one house or monastery built on this rock in the middle of nowhere and this house looks like its about to slide all the way down the hill.

We arrive at Argostoli around 2pm and it must be 35 degrees, so we can't wait to find a place for a swim as we really need to cool down.  The wharf is not busy so we reverse in front of some of the cafes and tie off.  It's only a 15 min walk to a swimming area so that's our first pty then a refreshing ale.

There are many large super ships in the harbour here as well.

I've been cooking during our trip south so we are having a delicious home cooked meal that will last us a few nights, chicken curry in a hurry, I'm not really sure it's appropriate food for the heat but very tasty none the least.  We take a stroll down the board walk after dinner and just chill out for to evening.

I think I get about three hours sleep so decide to get up and do the washing and some packing without waking Greg.  Greg wakes at six anyway so by 6.30 am we are on our way.  Next stop Zakinthos Island, Smugglers Cove and Keri.

Well that was the plan for a little while, as the wind has a mind of its own we change destinations three times for the day.  Next plan was to give Zakinthos a miss altogether this time and head around the east side of Cephalonia to Ay Eufimia with a visit to Lake Melissani and the Cave of Drogarati.

By the time we get to Poros we are over it so decide on a new place for the afternoon.  It's been a long day already for me so feeling a little weary.  On the way up we check out this beautiful beach area.

It's really hot by the time we are tied up on the wharf at Poros and the swimming area is just beside the Rock Bar.  We were here last year and this visit is even better for some reason.  The water is the best of the trip so far and we are able to take some video and swim right from the Bar.

We have a very refreshing afternoon.

We fill up with water and Greg manages to get a bucket of ice cream in return for a Gas bottle so that also helps cool us down.  The wind picks up but we are in a good possie and well tied up in readiness of the winds.  We actually think we might stay another night as its so nice here, especially the water.

Our sporting weekend

It's time for another walk up heartbreak hill on Spartakhori.  It's worth the walk as the view is spectacular.  We head up about 8.30am and its really hot already.

The Ionian sea is calm and glassy.

Once we return to our yacht we pick up anchor as are heading back to Nidri. I'm hoping to get back in time so I can have a hair cut before the Lions match as It  feels like straw from all the sun.  We get a position on the main wharf and I'm lucky enough to walk straight into the hairdressers for a quick wash cut and blow dry.  God that feels good.  Now a quick coffee and shower and we are back to Devine Bar for the Rugby test.

God the bar staff have been up all night and are already into the Jagger bombs, I wonder if they will last the day.  It's a great afternoon but sadly for the Wallaby's not their day, the Lions deserve to win on the day and by now we are all on the Jagger bombs.  God help us tomorrow!  We have a quick catch up with Belinda who is in Miami for the July 4th holidays and then attempt to watch the F 1 qualifying.  Not much watching goes on.  It's party central at Devine and everyone is having a ball.

Greg and I head back to the yacht and have a swim and a lie down, then it's off for a yummy wood fired pizza for dinner with loads of chilli, it's really good and just what we need.

We are up and away early on the Sunday as we have a little sail plan but don't tell the wind.  We are heading down south to Fiscardo on the Island of Cephalonica with a chance of sailing around the Island Zakinthos so fingers crossed with the wind.  The trip will take about five days if all goes to plan.  I promise Greg I will find a Bar showing the F1 in English this time; and luckily I get a bar to stream it,  unfortunately we have competition with Wimbledon on at 4pm and most of the bars are showing this.

We head out about 9pm for dinner and start with an Ouzo and wow the appetiser  that comes with it must win the prize for the most perfect plate.

It's really delicious and almost a meal in itself.

We settle for a pork shish with salad for dinner; something tasty and light.

Spartakhori Meganisi

After a very late start to the day we enjoy some coffee and lots of naughtiness at the Sivota bakery before heading off for the day.  It's a little cloudy and overcast this morning so not sure what the weather will bring us. The forecast is for south easterly s at Beaufort 3s but as we head out its dead calm for most of our trip.

We are headed around the island of Meganisi on the east side looking for a little beach to stop at for a swim.  Unfortunately the water temp does not go above 25 so swimming is out even though we stop at a few place for a look.  We raise the head sail a few times but what wind there is does not last long.

As we round the bottom of the island we find the caves we have seen advertised.  You can take a local cruise from Nidri and some of the ships can go right up inside some of the caves.

We arrive at Spartakhori around 2pm, as it takes us three hours to get there.  We are missing our British mates, G & T and J & T as we all met up here last year for dinner.

We are beside an adorable Welsh couple who have been on their trip for the same time as us and sounds like they have had worse weather than us.  They were sailing around the Peloponnese and like us went the wrong way for the winds.

After a refreshing dip in the water we retire for a siesta.

We are eating at the local Taverna tonight and enjoying the sea breeze.  It looks like it may even rain later on.

Sivota

After a leisurely start to the day we depart Vlikhou and head back to Nidri for providing and fuel. Plus I need to pick up our laundry.  We find a handy spot on the main wharf right outside the markets and cafes.  Greg goes and organises the fuel while I handle the provisioning. 

We have a late coffee at one of the cafes while we wait for the fuel guy who turns out to be an Aussie from Melbourne.  Once we have done all our chores we are headed south to Sivota still on the Island of Levkas.

It's a south easterly blowing so we slowly motor down to the bottom of Levkas relaxing watching the yachts go by.  We arrive around 2pm and there is plenty of room left on the wharf and find a good spot to reverse into right outside the Sivota bakery.  I know where we are going for breakfast in morning.

After a light lunch we take a walk around the harbour and have a few swims and refreshments at some of the local bars including one of our favourites; the Rock Bar.

We head out for dinner around 8pm and decide on Gods meatballs, shrimp spaghetti and Kleftiko, apparently the best in the area; which I must say was true.  It's  a beautiful balmy evening and we enjoy the people watching as we eat out dinner and enjoy a bottle of the local wine.