Corfu to Valtou mainland Greece

We get away at 11am and are heading for a quite Gulf on the mainland called Valtou.  We are the first to arrive in this secluded spot so hopefully it stays that way.  We are pretty keen to have a relaxing afternoon and catch up on some sleep.

A couple of yachts anchor at the other side of the Bay so Greg and I can still party in privacy.  We have a fun night of swimming and bubbles, just chillin’ out and mucking around.

Colling off

Sunset Valtou

Corfu – Marina Gouvia

We had a great night to celebrate 22.  The taxi driver dropped us off in the heart of Corfu and we walked straight into a Champagne Bar.  We order our celebratory Moet and enjoy this with some complimentary olives and nuts.  The owner owns the Italian restaurant next door so we decide to have dinner there and we can take our bubbles with us. 

The exotica salad is recommended so we both order this for an entrée, it’s delicious but really big for an entrée.  Actually all the meals here are huge so far.  The salad is made of avocado, prawns, mango, cucumber and a spicy dressing, it’s the best salad of the trip so far and goes perfectly with the Moet.

Happy 22!

Salad Exotica

We are very full now so stroll around the city.  It’s about midnight and the streets are packed with locals and tourists.  It’s still about  36 degrees as we wander around.  When we come back in a few week's time we will spend more time here.  Hopefully it will also be cooler by mid-September.

Mornings are my favourite time, its cooler and I can get my work done before melting.  I’ve removed the mattress covers from both the aft cabins and will get them washed today so they will be clean for our visitors next year. 

We have so many choices for coffee at the Marina, most have WI-FI so we are really loving this place especially the pool.

We grab a taxi in search for an electrical shop to purchase a new VHF radio as the one we have only receives and does not transmit.  It’s six years old so time to be replaced anyway.  Greg orders the exact model he wants and it will be delivered tomorrow.  We then go to the Port
Authority and Customs to get our paperwork finalised so we now have our Greek cruising log.  This needs to be stamped by the Port Authority when we arrive and depart each Island.  We have officially arrived in Greece!

The round trip in the taxi costs 45 Euros.

We head to the pool to cool off and have some lunch at the Blue Café.  We share a yummy Greek salad and chicken shish kebab. 

I noticed a large supermarket just outside the grounds of the Marina so decide it’s time to go for a little shop.  I stop at the chandler on the way and purchase and new boat hook, and some other cleaning goodies.  I also notice they sell the Magma BBQ which we have been trying to source for a few months.

It’s a great supermarket the cheapest so far, they are selling Moet for only 35 Euros, it my lucky day!  As I’m walking there is only so much I can carry but will be back tomorrow to get a few more bottles. 

love the shopping!

It’s time for another swim and basically we spend most of the evening by the pool.

After  breakfast we head back to town to pick up the VHF radio and drop by the marina that will winter our yacht.  We pay our deposit of 600 Euros and will drop the yacht back to the morning of the 18^th September.  We fly to Istanbul that day for a few nights.  We also stop off at the Supermarket so I can buy some more Moet and Greg picks up some spare parts for his toilet as its leaking. 

We are heading off today, so while Greg buys some ice and gets the paperwork stamped I make some lunch.  I manage to slice a rather large piece of skin of my finger, it’s a few layers thick, the worst cut I’ve ever had.  Its bleeding a lot so Dr Greg comes to assist me by bandaging it up, it’s throbbing and I am now single handed as I can't get it wet for a few days.

Happy 22!!!! and welcome to Corfu

It's 1830hrs and it's still 38 degrees, gee I was hoping for a few less degrees down here.

Greg and I have recovered from our sail to Greece and checked into Corfu marina for two nights.  It's huge and most likely the marina where we will winter the yacht until we return next year.
Our sail across to Corfu was spectacular.  While on autopilot I got to sunbake while Greg scrubbed the decks, he is getting very good at it!

The water is a wonderful shade of royal blue, so inviting and the water temperature is now over 28 degrees so can't wait to try it.

water temp

cruising along

our lounge room

After our first Greek lunch which was yummy, we go shopping for supplies and other yacht stuff at the Marina.  It has loads for shops and cafes / bars and Greg has just found the swimming pool so will be going for a dip real soon. 

I am now up todate finally and think the WI-FI situation may be better in Greece.

Thanks to everyone who has posted comments and messages for us we really love hearing from you all.

Tonight we are off into town to celebrate Happy 22!

Farewell Croatia and welcome to Greece

hazy Dubrovnik

Monday 20^th August

After shopping for our maps and supplies we depart Orsan YC about 9.30am and head straight for the fuel station.  Will fill up taking 110 litres.  Since we commenced our trip we have motored for 36 hours. We then head across the harbour and tie up outside the Police and customs departure office to get our paperwork stamped and approved to leave Croatia.  We also have to visit the Harbour Master,  this process takes about 30 mins so we are heading out of Dubrovnik about 10.30am.

Greg has prepared our sail plan to Greece and once we clear the headland our course is 160degrees S SE until we hit International waters, out first way point.  By 1300hrs we have only seen three boats all in the horizon traveling north most likely to Mljet.  22Nms SE of Dubrovnik we take down the Croatian flag as we are now in International waters.

Next heading is 130degress SE.  Just as we leave Croatian waters a large pod of dolphins swim with us bidding us farewell. These ones are really playful and are jumping a lot over our bow enjoying themselves.

At 1445hrs we take our next heading of 165degress and plan to stay on this course until day break tomorrow morning around 0500hrs.  It’s the next waypoint where we turn into Othoni Greece.  ETA midday 21^st August.

Later in the afternoon we are joined by some more dolphins that swim with us for some time.  They like to scratch their back on the hull of the yacht.

At 1600hrs we lose sight of the mainland due to the haze, apparently there is a bad fire in Bosnia causing all the soot and haze.

At 1700hrs we are 24 Nms off the mainland and we have already passed Montenegro and are passing by Albania. There are  two patrol boats making themselves known to us but still keeping their distance.  Only 12 more hours to go on this heading yeh!!!!!

By 2000hrs I’ve had a refreshing shower off the back of the yacht and get ready for my shift.   Greg had to replace the stern light as there appears to be a lose fitting.  All we can see is the horizon line, there is no mainland and not a single ship in sight.  The new moon is setting so we even lose the  moonlight for the trip.  Lifejackets are on the deck and the sun has set.  Another pod of dolphins join us and stay with us for about 20 mins.  They seem to be having fun.

At this heading there is a cross swell which makes the trip uncomfortable.  We take 1 hour shifts on the helm as the auto pilot does not handle this swell really well.  It’s really hard work and all our muscles are stiff and aching.  It’s going to be a long night, imagine being blind and steering a yacht, that’s what we are doing.  It’s is soo black we can’t see a thing in front of us, just hope all the electronics are accurate.  We can’t determine the sea from the sky unless we see a cruise liner in the distance, there is really no one out here.

The swell continues to bother us so we change course to give us some relief on the helm.  It’s about 2200hrs and I’m using the autopilot for my shift now.  Greg is trying to catch an hour's sleep on deck.  Every five mins or so there is a rough set of swell that hits us, so strong you nearly roll out of the cockpit lounge wen sleeping.

50 winks

It’s going to be a long night of darkness.  I’m not used to night sailing like this and I don’t like it!

The odd cruise liners passes us by in the distance, otherwise it’s just Greg and me and the ocean.

Dawn breaks at about 0500hrs and we are still 10Nms from out final way point as we lost speed once we took the headsail down before dark.

At 0600hrs we head for our final destination, bearing 147 degrees SE.  We have about 50 Nms to go!

We have been taking our bearings every hour and checking the engine temperature and oil gauges, everything has worked really well.  At 1030hrs we work out how far we have travelled in 24hours.  We have travelled 160Nms at a average speed of 6.66 Nms equivalent to just over 13 Kms per hour.

At approx. 1130hrs we are finally in Greek waters and 12 Nms away from our destination.  Greg launches the Greek flag and a yellow flag indicating we have not cleared customs.  Essentially it means our boat is dirty.  Our plan is to rest at the first Greek island of Orthondi and then clear customs at Corfu on the 22^nd August. 

It’s still really hazy and for the first time in about 24hrs we can finally see the mainland of Albania and what we believe to be Orthondi our final destination in the distance.  It’s great to have a reference point to aim the yacht at.  Since 0630hrs we have only seen about 2 ships.

By 1100hrs we have left the Adriatic Sea and entered to Ionian Sea, and in Greek waters.  The depth is about 1000 Mtrs and water temp over 27 degrees.  Can't wait for a swim!  We arrive at Orthondi at about 1300hrs and there is no safe anchoring left to we have to head for the next small island of Erikoussa. We are able to find a safe anchoring and are so pleased to be able to rest for a while.

This trip we travelled 190 Nms and since we left Marina Kremik we have travelled 409 Nms, over 800Kms.

The water here is sooo blue and we are really keen to take a swim to cool off.  We are going to take some well earnt RnR.

happy Captain

Mljet to Dubrovnik

 After a coffee and some pastries we head SE for Dubrovnik.  We actually get both sails up for about an hour and then the wind dies down altogether so we motor along.  The auto pilot is fantastic as we can keep watch and sunbake at the same time.

It’s about a three hour trip and we are heading for Luka Gruz, there is a yacht club there that may have room as the ACI marina is full.  We take a quick look around the harbour and then settle for Orsan yacht club and they wave us in.  We are staying at least two nights here. It’s a pretty easy berthing as the marina is not full yet and the weather is being kind to us today. 

I did notice a department store in the distance so once we are secure I go shopping for a while.  I find a few goodies and then meet Greg for a bite to eat, yes it’s pizza and salad time again,  but all very tasty. 

Its soooo freggin’ hot again, actually it’s humid and there is another heat wave forecast so I can’t stop sweating.  I’m not sure what the high was today but the evening does not go below 30 degrees.

Dubrovnik harbour

panorama

Just when we thought we were having some privacy tonight, another yacht squeezes in between us.  I’m not sure how they did that, just as well they are Kiwis on holiday for Abu Dhabi.  We help fend off as they manoeuvre in.

Where we are staying is in Gruz the commercial port of Dubrovnik, it’s very busy and all the large cruise liners dock here.  It’s about a ten minute taxi ride to the old city.  We go there for a walk around and dinner.  There is not a breath of wind as we walk around the Piazza.  We find a great restaurant on the hill overlooking the old city called Revelin Konoba .  We have a lovely meal and by about 10pm there is a wind blowing which turns into a boran a mini bora, GREAT!  Back at the wharf, we are all getting blown around terribly and there are lots of noises.  Wind is gusting at about 35Kn.  Let’s hope the sleeping tablets kick in tonight.

Greg enjoying dinner

guards on watch

We wake up to a beautiful morning and head back to the old city.  We found a spot last night for laundry, café and WI-FI.  I start the washing and Greg heads over to the ACI marina to purchase our maps for Greece but he has no luck as the shop is closed on a Sunday.  While the laundry is being done I’m enjoying a lovely breakfast of savoury omelette and cappuccino while looking out on the old city.  I’m still gob smacked about the history of this place.  Greg joins me and also enjoys his  breakfast.  Once the laundry is done we head back to the marina.

Greg has decided that we are leaving Croatia from Dubrovnik tomorrow so we need to get everything ready for our departure.  It’s approx. 30 hrs to Orthondi or 200 Nm.  Orthondi  is a small island just off Corfu and we plan to arrive in the afternoon of August 21st.  I need to cook a meal in advance just for reheating on the way which is ravioli in a tomato sauce.  We are bypassing Montenegro and Albania and will be heading SE inside international waters and hopefully missing all the large ships and cruises.

Sunday night we take a taxi to the old city and take the cable car to the top of the mountain, wow what a view,  this was blown up in the war of 1991/92.  There is a wonderful restaurant here and we have a cocktail while enjoying the views. 

View from top of mountain

old city

For dinner we head back to the Orsan Yacht Club where we are staying,  the reviews a very good but we are a little disappointed with the food.  However it is a relaxing enjoyable evening and we don’t have to go far to get home I just have to walk the plank!

walking the plank

It’s still very balmy and there is a lot of smoke and haze in the air from fires somewhere.  I have a restless night sleep and wake to find the yacht and saloon covered in soot.  It’s been blowing 10Kns for about four hours now.

We head off to do our last minute shopping and purchase our maps in readiness for our departure.





Mljet

We arrive at Polace on the island Mljet at about 2pm.  We pull up stern to into Joseph’s place, a restaurant with it’s own jetty on the water.  After leaving Kremik we receive the warmest  welcome of our trip so far.  Joseph is an interesting character, the first Croatian to actually help us moor our boat;  as a merchant seaman he has been and seen a lot and tells us a few tales.  His wife Anna and the whole family help out in the restaurant of an evening.

The local fisherman drops by with our dinner, yes a 17Kg kingfish; we are really looking forward to eating tonight.  We have a few drinks and walk around town.  Dinner is delicious everything is home grown and made except for the tomatoes.  The goats cheese is exceptional and so is Joseph’s special homemade liqueur made of rose petals.  A big thanks to Joseph and his family for making our stay very special.



dinner tonight



chillin at Joseph's

Polace,
 Mljet

Next day we buy tickets to the National park to visit the lakes.  Our ticket includes a return bus trip to Pristaniste and a boat ride across the Lakes to the historic St Maria Monastery,  the history of Croatia is incredible.  Mljet was inhabited in Neolithic times, it’s hard to imagine really.  Once back in Polace we spend a few hours at the internet café and then head off for Prozurska our next stop on Mljet.  Joseph and his family wave us goodbye.



oops I forgot Greg!



Polace to Prozurska Otok Mljet

After our goodbyes we head East along the north coast of Mljet for Prozurska, a small inlet and village only two hours away.  We pick up a mooring that belongs to a local restaurant called Marijina Konoba  so we will be eating there tonight.  We jump off the back of the yacht  for a quick swim and then have a cat nap.  The guy from the Konoba drops by to take our orders for dinner, Greg chooses scorpion fish, sounds interesting.

We head over to shore and have a stroll around, there are a few apartments and only 2 restaurants.  For dinner we try oysters for the first time, they are fresh and delicious.  Next comes the scorpion fish, tastes a little like lobster, quite fleshy and also very tasty, we wash this down with a bottle of Posip Cara, a white wine from the region.

Greg rows us back to our yacht for the night.

Greg at Prozurska

Our restaurant

oysters for dinner

Vis to Korcula

sunrise as we depart Vis

Once we are out of the bay the seas are calm and we are hoping to put the sails up today.  We have only had the right winds a few days ago to use the head sail.  Today we are heading  SE to Korcula with the wind on our nose so unfortunately no sailing today. 

It’s about a two hour motor to our next pit stop for a quick bit to eat before we arrive in Brna Korcula, on the south coast in the middle of the island.  A quaint little village.  We are lucky and pick up a mooring in the harbour.  We row ashore for supplies and to look around.

The kids are out playing and have a great day outdoors.  We come back for a cat nap and then go ashore again for cocktails and dinner.  Hotel Feral is the only place we can exchange our Euros.  I’m surprised by how many places do not accept the Euro just yet.  We eat at Grill Brna which has a great view of the harbour.  Greg has mussels cooked Dalmatian style and I try the octopus salad.  Both are delicious.  We then have a little walk around the foreshore again.  The kids are still playing and swimming which is great to see.  After a night cap we head back to the yacht and crash out .

Brna harbour

Dinner at Grill Brna

Panoramic Brna

Next morning it’s a beautiful day.  I have a quick swim off the back of the boat and then we head off after a coffee.  We hope to sail today but there are no winds so we keep motoring east to Korcula harbour.  The ACI marina has berths on the outside which are not so great.  There is a swell and back wash pushing us and all the yachts around, I don’t like this place much; it’s a disaster waiting to happen.  As there are only two of us, the process of docking stern to wharf is difficult.  Tying off the bow line is exhausting for me I’m almost fainting.  We are scrambling to tie up in a hurry but manage to do so without any problems.  A yacht comes in beside us and they have no clue what to do.  Greg and I spend the next 30 mins fending off their yacht while the crew chat on the phone.   It’s always a learning process and we watch and learn and improve our process every day.  As we did not book a berth in advance we have to stay outside all night.  The gap between the yacht and the concrete finger wharf is a long way up and I’m not enjoying walking the plank.    The seas calm down and it’s a calm evening on the marina.  Our stress level  are high and we have not eaten all day and it’s about 3pm.  I head into town and find a great pizza place and Greg joins me shortly afterwards. 

The marina has a great super market so we stock up and I try the WI-FI but can only really load the content and no pics.  Greg meets up with a work colleague and they advise us on some places to visit while on Korcula.  We have an afternoon nap and then head back to town.  Greg saw a restaurant before serving slow cooked lamb on the spit.  We try that but it’s the last of the lamb and we get a plate of bones and fat, not so nice!  The grilled veggies are great though.  We go for a stroll through the old city and find a cocktail lounge on the top of the old castle.  It’s a cool night which is refreshing.  Both of us have a great night;s sleep.

First thing next morning I’m trying the WI-FI again but no luck with loading the photos.  We have decided to hire a scooter for a few hours and take a look around.  Its sooo cheap, only 120 Kuna's for  fuel for five hours hire, that’s about $20 AUD.    Cheap as!  We head north around the coast line; it’s really beautiful.  There are some great anchorages and bays.  We can only go as far as Racisce by bike as the road ends.  We turn back and head for Lumbarda, where there is another marina which was full yesterday.  We see the guys cooking the slow cooked lamb, six at a time.  Unfortunately they are not ready for eating yet so we stop for a bite to eat for breakfast and then I take a quick swim to cool off.  We head back to town.  I jump off to scooter to pay the marina for the night and do some final shopping.  Greg returns the scooter and begins to get ready for our departure.  Most yachts have already left already so it’s easy departure this time.  We wonder why one of our fenders is missing on our starboard side where the Ukraine’s were last night?    It was tied up on our yacht and it had our name on it.  Anyway we get away for Korcula at about noon heading SE to Mljet.



Kneza, Korcula



Scooter buddies

MMMMM lamb!
Lumbarda Korcula

Hope the cocktails are worth the climb!