How's the serenity?

After a sleepless night in Kalamos we are the first to leave at 7am and we can't wait to get away from the wind tunnel.  Lucky for us we don't have a fouled anchor.

We are headed to Nidri on the East coast of Lefkada about two hours away.  The wind is already blowing at 4s and 5s but we don't care any more.

Once we get close to the bay the winds die down and it's pretty calm and we find a spot on the wharf to reverse into.  It's very close to all the shops and Tavernas.  We jump ashore and head for the closest cafe for a caffeine hit and some breakfast.  Oh god it's so great to be where there is no wind for a change.  It looks like we may stay in the area for some time as there is another bay further south of Nidri that we would like to visit as well.

After a few good coffees I head into the town in search of a sports bar to watch the State of Origin.  I try every place that has a TV but no luck.  Andy at the DeVine Bar spends a while Googling for me but has no luck either however I decide we can use his Wi-Fi and listen to the game like last time.

After showers and some tidying up on the yacht we head over for the game.  Well what can I say other than what a turn around from game 1. Lets hope the Blues learn a few things from this game and thrash the Maroons in a few weeks.  

We are going to be adults tonight and stay up late for a change.  We have some Ouzos at one of the lounges and a few drinks on board the yacht.  We feel like celebrating as finally we can relax and light up one of the Cuban cigars that Craig gave us. Soooo smooth.  Thanks Craig.

Next it's out to find a club and we try a few Bars along the beach front and enjoy chillin out.  There's not really any clubbing going on so we have our midnight supper of chicken shish on the way home.  We sleep in till 10am oh heaven and eventually head for our caffeine hit.

It's another great day with the temperature hitting the high 20s.  We decide to leave and check out Vlikhou.  Finally it's our turn to get a fouled anchor and boy it's a beauty.  I've managed to hook my anchor through an old one laying on the bottom with chain.  The anchor winch seizes and Greg has to dive in and somehow release the anchor.  Unfortunately the old anchor and chain will remain on the bottom for another poor soul to get fouled on as its too heavy to remove.

It's only about one nautical mile south to Vlikhou and we find a great place to anchor, the bay is pretty full as a lot of sailors would be running from the winds.  Outside its still blowing 5s and 6s but we are fully protected where we are.  We drop anchor and all I feel like doing is sleeping so I doze off throughout the day in the cockpit in between lunch and swimming.  Finally we can relax!

I row ashore as we are going for dinner at one for the Tavernas along the shore.  The one we go to had a lovely veranda over the water and the food is home cooked and delicious.  We finish our night at the Quay Cafe that has great Wi- Fi and served us a beautiful plate to go with our Ouzo which we could not eat as so full from dinner.  I felt bad leaving it but took the photo.

  

It's a very peaceful night on the yacht and we have another great sleep.  I get up early to apply for a few jobs that have been advertised as I work better in the morning.  I also read the ICC book from start to finish basically the certification you need to sail in Europe.  I am trying to find a company that will let me sit the exam while I'm over here.

After a coffee on board we decide to head back to Nidri for some provisioning as we are out of water.  Greg doesn't want to tie up at the wharf again and get fouled so he reverses onto a charter pontoon and drops me off.  That's where the fun begins.  I'm back on the pontoon waiting to get picked up and I can see Greg passing me by but not even looking my way.  He's going to the wrong pontoon for me.  30 mins later as the ice is melting away he finally picks up his phone and all my unhappy messages.  Meanwhile the tender that was tied to the front of the yacht has filled with water and we have lost out temporary seat.  Yes it's still a mystery what actually happen to our tender seat.  Anyway we must be too relaxed as we keep stuffing up.  Greg finally realises I'm on the other wharf waiting for him and not a happy chap might I say.  On the way back to Vlikhou Greg empties the water out of the tender and cops and earful from me.  It takes us three attempts to dig the anchor in and we are finally secure for another peaceful day / night in Vlikhou.

Thank god for George!

 We depart Astakos just after 8 after I take a walk around town and grab some provisions.  We are expecting winds to Beaufort 5 all day today but first up its pretty mild and we have a nice motor sail over to Port Leone on the Island of Kalamos.  Port Leone village was deserted in 1953 after the earthquake destroyed the local water supply.  It's was easier to relocate rather than rebuild.

We arrive in Kalamos Harbour around 11 and tie off to shore with all our anchor out.  The harbour master George lets us know that they are expecting big winds tonight and we are not really that protected in this harbour from the NW winds even though our pilot book states we  should be.

The harbour starts to fill up with numerous charter yachts rafted up side on and other private yachts stern in like us.  Every one is on edge due to the intensity of the winds slowly building up. If only you could hear the noise.  Every possible line that could assist has been used and tied off.  The harbourmaster George is amazing helping every single yacht come in.

Looks like another sleepless night for all of us.

The biggest question now is do we leave tomorrow and find another shelted place or sit it out for another  night.

I'm blogging live now and it's just after 6.30pm, George is still in his tinny assisting.  The charter yachts are rafted up eight three on both sides of the harbour entrance, it's hard to believe.  George has to ask some late comers to anchor outside as there is no room left now.

The good news is that is feels like the winds are dying down a little, fingers crossed.

I think the only thing to save us tonight is a little yamas!

And George!

Welcome to the Ionians

Although I'm glad to be leaving Mesolongion there are some redeeming features like the turtles and cafe that does have great Wi-Fi.  We had a great catch up with Belinda yesterday afternoon and sounds like she is having a ball.

Messolonghi marina is hot and not fully set up yet plus a good 20 min walk into the town centre.  You can't swim in the water as it's too dirty from the fish farms and marsh land so happy to depart Monday morning for a further destination on the mainland on the west coast called Astakos.  Don't get me wrong we are wintering here and a great place to do that but not a great place to hang around for too long.

We start our morning sail in dead calm but 90 minutes out is blows into 4, 5, and 6ers.  So what is new.  Even the Ionians are having unseasonable weather as we find out. We pass loads of fish farms and the water is that greeny yellow murky colour not very inviting and this fish farm is moving to a new location.

We arrive at our next destination around noon and our neighbours ungraciously bark orders at us as we reverse stern to the wharf right outside all the restaurants and cafes.  They assume we are a charter yacht  so we soon set them straight.  Although its a public holiday most places are open for business.

Astakos is a small  fishing village, basic but does have some lovely beaches and we cool off in the afternoon.  There is a unpleasant smell every now and then but the fishes seem to love the water.  I've never seen so large schools of fish.

We are all expecting some big winds tonight but actually they don't really eventuate. As we are both sleep deprived we have an early night and plan to leave early tomorrow as the meltimi is heading our way.  The Meltimi are strong N NW winds that blow for days up to force 7-8.  And as the Greek Islands are large masses or mountainous  rock, the winds blow down the sides of the mountains which accelerates the speed.

Moonlight cruise

We've decided to use the natural light of the full moon, so depart our ancorage at 1am after a few hours sleep.  The winds gods are with us tonight as for the majority of the way it is dead calm.  Apart from a few fishing boats we only pass one large vessel during our eight hour journey.

We head back under the Rion Bridge as the moon is setting in the west

And the sun is rising in the east.

It's a great way to beat the sun gods today.  We arrive at Mesolongion pronounced Missalonghi around 9am to find the Marina closed today and also Monday due to a public holiday.  It's a shame as we are planning on wintering here and were hoping to sign the contracts etc.  Guess that will have to wait till out return on the 17th July.

We are pretty knackered so have a few hours kip then do a little provisioning at the marina market.  It's hot but we have a great breeze passing through the yacht so not unpleasant.

I have a FaceTime date with Belinda who is in New York so hopefully Wi-Fi permitting we can catch up for the first time in six weeks.  Then we will head into town to see some of the pre celebrations in readiness for tomorrow's public holiday.

Not sure what this poor chappie is doing but would prefer to be pulling the rope.

Tomorrow is a different story as the winds are blowing from the west at 5s so not sure right now where we are going, guess the Captain can make that decision in the morning.

Last time we we here few found a great looking pizza place so that's where we are heading tonight. It's a good walk into town and we enjoy our meal.

Gulf of Corinth

We are up by 6am and away by 7am after an ok sleep for once.

The weather conditions are favourable for us today so we have our fingers crossed.  We are very glad to be away from the Aegean Sea and heading back to the Ionians.  We make contact with some of the guys we met last year but it seems we can only catch up with one couple, Trevor and Jo everyone else has gone back home or caught up in the meltimei  in the Aegean.

So far we have travelled over 1300 nautical miles in 60 days and to put the weather conditions into perspective; if we had been travelling in the same conditions is Oz we would have only be able to leave port about 8 times.  Anything over 25 knots is classified as a strong wind warning and you are not supposed to sail in these conditions.  Over here there does not seem to be any rules.  The winds have been great for the hard core sailors but not really the cruises like Greg and I.  Like everyone we have met who is experienced sailing the area, the weather is very unseasonable.

The winds gods our liking us today as we have a lovely day at sea, the temperature reaches 36 today so hot, hot hot and bearly reaches the forecast of beaufort 4s.  Our destination is Galaxidhi just west of Itea however we decide on an anchorage so we can enjoy the heat and swim.   Anemokambi is just a little further west than Galaxidhi and we pick up a mooring here.  As there are lots of fish farms in the area the water is not so clear but still great for cooling off.  The local turtle keeps as amused as he keeps popping up to take a breathe.

I forgot to add that the bow riders from our easterly trip joined us again, boy were they having fun surfing our bow. Video to come. 

It's going to be a full moon tonight so we decide on an early start to beat the heat and enjoy the moonlight.

Korfos / Corinth Canal

Heading into Korfos we see lots of wild life; dolphins, jumping swordfish and an unrecognisable mammal, dark grey without fins and I only saw the last of it enter the water.  There are also fish farms around which is good for sustainability of the fishing industry.

Once secure at Korfos we meet our neighbours from NZ, Neil and Yvonne.  They have been travelling to Greece for years and still love it.  Neil passes on some advice and hints to Greg as we have a afternoon drink.  Unfortunately they are heading home in a couple of days back to Wellington and will be met by snow, so they are not so happy.

Dinner at the restaurant is terrific, we splurge on dolmates, sagonaki prawns, octopus and chicken shish; all really delicious with a drop of white wine.

It's still a noisy night so not much sleep has been had. 

We depart around 7am and bid Neil farewell.  We head south into a southerly, then we head east into an easterly, then north into a northerly and finally our last leg is west into a westerly blowing 5s and 6s.  We are not sure if we can pass through the Corinth in this weather.  

Luckily by the time we get into the Corinth  holding bay the winds have dropped off.  We pay our €209 Euros and wait about 90 minutes for our time to proceed.  It's tricky leaving as we have a huge passenger Cat right in front of us and we have to push the bow out by hand and feet so we can pass without hitting it.  

The passage is uneventful and we are lucky to find a spot in the Corinth Harbour.  We tie up side on and have a great spot for the evening.

After lunch I basically pass out most likely from lack of sleep over the last few days.  I feel fatigued   and very slothful.  I do recover and after a cold shower we head into town for dinner and a shop.  Last time we are here I found a great handbag so after sleeping on it for many nights I've decided to buy it if its still available.  I'm in luck its still there so I'm a happy chap.

We have a ouzo at one of the trendy bars then find the Wind Telco shop so we can purchase a data card for the IPad, which we use for the weather forecasts numerous times a day.  It's much cheaper than the option we have been using, the TravelSim from Australia.  Then we find a cheap option for dinner and enjoy some delicious chicken and salad.

Poros

We move our yacht across to the other wharf and now have protection from the winds from a huge cruiser we are next to.  Well that is the idea anyway, while the winds are blowing from the NE.

It's another hot day so after lunch we can walk to the closest beach only 15 mins away.  The winds are picking up as predicted and we have decided to stay in Poros for three nights as it is a lovely island and harbour with everything you need close by.

We bump into many Australians in Poros including Craig from Brisbane who is sailing the Shirley Valentine.  I meant to ask him if he chose the name or not.  Have suggested to Greg we try to download it as its a fun movie to watch and relevant to what we are doing in Greece.

Unfortunately we  don't get much sleep on nights  two or three as it feels like we are in a washing machine.  The swell from the winds and the noise from the swell keeps us awake for most of the night.

Plus there are never ending ferries going by creating a wash.

Thursday morning we are watching the weather forecast and also all the yachts trying to leave the harbour.  There are a few fouled anchors and one yacht had to order a diver in to assist them.  The cruiser next to us has to pull up anchor to assist some of the yachts that think they are fouled but they are not however this gives us a very short window of opportunity to leave as well.  Within minutes we a on the way and heading for Korfos.  It's on the mainland only 10 Nmls south of the Corinth Canal and weather permitting tomorrow will will head through it and stay at the Corinth Harbour tomorrow night.

It blows to 4s and 5s as predicted and for most of the journey we are punching into the wind.  It's takes us about four hours to get to Korfos.  There is a cross wind as we try to dock which causes all kinds of trouble for us and the yacht that arrives after us.  We are tied up and hoping the wind doesn't pick up to anything more than a 5 tonight.  The forecast is still for 5s 6s and 7s in the region.

The sea temperature gauge is reading 29 degrees and we can't wait for a swim.  We are tied up at Stavedo's Waterfront Restaurant so will be enjoying some home cook food tonight and hopefully a good nights sleep.  

Day two in Poros.

We awake to another beautiful sunny day after a great nights sleep.  While I organise the laundry and provisioning, Greg handles the Port Police and then we meet for a cappuccino to decide what to do today.

There are some great beaches close by and I'm busting for a swim so we hire a scooter for the afternoon.  After an early lunch we set off around the Island.

The first beach we pass is Askeli Beach and decide to end up there after we have been around the island.  There is a huge super ship in the bay with an Australian flag flying, we wonder who it could be? Maybe Mr Lowy or Greg Normal.

We then continue and end up at Vagionas Bay for a swim and cold beer.

We travel up to the top of Poros and we can see out north to the island of  Aegina, the seas are looking pretty calm and its a fantastic view.

We then pass by Poseidon's Sanctuary and yes more ruins but not worth a photo  but some interesting ancient history.

It's hard to read due to the tree shadow I'm afraid.

Then we go to Russian Bay which looks great and maybe a mooring for tomorrow night if it is protected from the winds.

Last pit stop is Love Bay.

We hire some deck chairs and set up for the afternoon, swimming and relaxing, it's really great here.

After a few hours we are feeling cooked so time to head back to the harbour.  We pass by Askeli Beach again and take a closer look at the super yacht.  I can't believe it, it's Ilona, Mr Lowys yacht.  How uncanny is that!

Back at the yacht we fill up with diesel and I collect the laundry.  It's breezy but we are fairly protected where we are.

Poros....summer is finally here!

We depart Serifos at 6pm a few hours behind our original plan but it was a good call to wait.  The forecast for the day should mean we have a perfect sail across to the mainland and we are heading for the Island of Poros.  It's about 55 Nmls.  We are a little hesitant as we are not really sure what to expect from the winds as the forecast from Tuesday onwards is Beaufort 5s and 6 s right down the guts of the Aegean Sea where we were which makes it impossible to leave if we don't move today.  Liz and Paul are waiting it out.

The wind gods are finally looking after us; we a have a starboard tack for today as the winds are from the N NW blowing a max of beaufort 4s as predicted, for once the forecast is right!  We have a good day and are very happy to see the mainland about five hours into the journey.

About an hour from Poros I see a large spray from what looks like a cruiser, it's passing us on our starboard side but soon changes direction to pass in front of us.  As we get closer Greg realises its a submarine, yeah what the!  It's passes us only 200 mtres away and the guys are climbing out of the catch. They go by and what an amazing site.  Greg reckons they have been using us for missile target practice.

Hal hope you like this one!

It certainly makes for an interesting passage.

The temperature has definitely gone up and so has the sea temp now recording above 27 degrees for the first time.  Can't wait for a swim!

Poros looks like another beautiful village catering for the yachting community.  The water front is covered in tavernas and bars and there are many yachts already tied up by the time we arrive around 2pm.  We feel like we deserve a reward for arriving over on the mainland in one piece so go for a delicious Greek lunch at the near by Poseidon Taverna.  Hopefully this is the start of our summer holiday.

We think we are ruined out so this could be the last shot for the blog.

At the Taverna it's great to finally see some ladies getting together and having lunch, the restaurant is full of women for once.  Usually it's the men sitting around drinking coffee and playing backgammon while the women are at work.  And for once I have the smallest tits in the village!

We are soooo full and hot after lunch we lie down till 6.30.  It's still really hot but cooler once we leave the yacht for a walk.  Greg is keen to have a hair cut and one of the restaurant guys took him for a ride on his shooter to show him where to go once the shops reopen.

We have a walk around the waterfront and stop for some refreshments and Wi-Fi.  I have the worst case of panda eyes and we are both suffering from wind burn so I can't take my glasses off. Yammas! 

Serifos

We depart Aliki around 8am and its a beautiful morning and we have a good forecast for the day ahead.  We are heading north west to the island of Serifos about 35 Nmls away.  We motor sail thoughout  the day depending on the direction of the wind.  The sun is shining and we have a fairly relaxing day on the yacht for a change.  We sun bake and have a swim off the back as we go along.  

We also bump into some very small turtles and wonder how long they will survive; as they are swimming for their lives.

We arrive at Serifos around 4pm and get the berth right at the end of the wharf, we are just in time it would seem.  It's still very hot so we walk around the bay and have a swim.

There is a guy on a water  jet attached to a jet ski  having some fun as well.

We have dinner on board and I make a delicious spag bol with plenty of left overs for tomorrow.  Our next door neighbours invite us over for a drink so we head over after dinner. 

Paul and Jill from the UK have been living on board their yacht for 9 years.  They are characters and have some greats stories to tell.  Paul loves his music and brings out a few guitars so the boys have a jam.

We are planning on a early departure tomorrow as the weather forecast for the next few days is looking ominous, so we need to run across to the mainland before it hits otherwise we will be stuck here for  quite a few days.